Tune UP your mazda RX8 - best deal kit
Mazda RX8 Eibach pro kit suspension upgrade

License plate LED lights

September 29, 2011

This DIY shows how to replace the license lights.

For this operation you require these 2 tools:
- new 194 bulbs standard or LED
- Flat Head Screw Driver

LED light swap for mazda rx8

This mode takes only 5 minutes to do. You need to take your flat head screw driver and position is on the end of the lens as shown in picture 1. You then need to pry it off gently. It should pop right out and make sure you catch it because it has a tendency to fly down. The bulb is then visible and you will want to put it out and replace it with you new bulb.

You can choose this type of lights (not LED): http://autolumination.com/194.htm scroll down the page until you see on the right side of the page 194 (Super White) Xeon. It’s about $1.50 each.
You can also use this type of lights to replace all the interior lights of your mazda RX-8.

LED license plate for mazda rx8

You could also use a 3D setup like here:
http://www.rx8shop.com/index.php/113-Lights/204-Rx8-3rd-Brake-Light-Assembly/flypage.tpl

Enjoy your new rear license LED’s.

Information from rx8club.com

DIY Mazda RX8 Oil catch can

February 23, 2010

Step 1: Do you need a catch can?
In the 04 and 05 models, if you overfilled the oil, it could blow back into your upper intake clogging the throttle body and perhaps causing your SSV valve to be stick closed. (bad, causes stalling at Idle, build up, etc)
A catch can will keep all of this oil “blow by” of overfilled oil out of your intake.

06’s and newer have the oil overflow routed into the rear maintenance ports.

I purchased the catch can below off ebay for $45. Claimed it was OBX, but obx didn’t have these on their site. So… who knows - its a can that holds oil… as long as it doesn’t leak, i’m happy.

Step 2. Choose a catch can that you feel comfortable with. 750ml capacity is pretty large. Make sure you can fit a large can in your engine bay. Quality doesn’t seem to be a real issue as long as the fittings are good. But like anything else, you get what you pay for.

Step 3. Supplies. (If not included with your can)
Vacuum/ emissions hose. thicker walled, enough to not collapse under vacuum.
24 inches should be enough. I used 5/16 hose, but it would be easier with a slightly larger diameter.
Hose clamps
10mm socket
flat head screw driver
Vacuum Caps
Breather filter (if desired - not running hose back into intake)

Step 4. Remove the stock hose connecting the oil filler chamber to the intake. You do not need any tools to this, it will just pop off with a little wiggling.
Ports to remove are in red circles, and the hose path is in yellow.
Note - when removing the hose from the air intake, it connects to a black plastic “L” joint. If you try to rip off the hose, you risk breaking this L joint. So be gentle with it and slowly work it off.
Don’t use pliers either.

Also - Keep that stock hose someplace if you ever need to go back to stock. I’m sure a dealership would try to void your warranty for this.

Step 5. Find a suitable mount for your catch can. Best places are by the window washer fluid tank or the other side by the brake master cylinder. Ensure a good fit, make sure the path of your hoses won’t run by any belts or really hot areas.

Be sure you can see the oil catch can oil level without too much difficulty.

I mounted mine in front of the washer fluid can. Removed the 10mm bolt and popped off the wiring clip. I also mounted my can quickly to test it to make sure it would fit alright then unbolted it so it would be easier to attach the hose.
I circled my primary locations in the picture.

Step 6. Run the hose to unmounted can. Mark the hose and cut the proper length. Try to keep the filler cap higher than the entry port to the catch can so the overflow will run into the can with gravity.

Mount your hose from the filler port to the “unmounted” catch can, but run the hose on the path that you want it. (it’ll be easier to attach the hose to the can when it is not mounted)

Use a clamp on the catch can filler neck hose…

Step 7. Finish mounting the can with the hoses run to and from the can (if you’re not capping the intake)

Step 8. Install breather on exit port of catch can and install hose clamp on port.

Step 9. Cap the intake (If not running catch can exit hose back to intake)
With the stock hose removed, you’ll have an open port into your intake that is unfiltered air (bad). Thus, you need to cap it using a Vacuum cap, I don’t know the exact size for sure, so I just tried different sizes out of my “variety pack” from autozone until I got one to fit.

Step 10. Admire your handy work, even you can work on cars!

Again, this DIY may seem really really basic, but I think it will be helpful for people who are not really comfortable working on their cars - this is really step by step.

Enjoy a dry intake from now on!

Credentials to Vyndictive from rx8club.com

DIY : RX-8 Throttle coolant bypass

February 23, 2010

Many cars run engine coolant through the throttle body in order to warm it up so the throttle body doesn’t get filled with ice due to a mix of cold temps, humidity, and condensation. This is done because car manufacturers cannot design a car to work for “most” people, they are expected to make cars that work in any condition.

Lucky for almost all of us, we don’t live in subarctic locations… It’s a no brainer for anyone living in the south.

The throttle body’s purpose is to control the amount of air that goes into the engine. With 180-200 degree coolant running through it, we are essentially heating up the air moments before it goes into the engine.

Bypassing the throttle body is easy and should take about 5 minutes.

You will need a single 5/16″ barb that looks like this (buy it from home depot):

Two small hose clamps (any auto parts store will carry these):

And finally, you’ll need two 5/16″ vacuum caps (I initially bought 3/8″ and it was far too big):

Before you begin, make sure your car is cooled down, otherwise you risk getting burned if coolant splatters on you.

First, open the radiator cap in case it’s pressurized.

Next, look at the throttle body. On the top is a black hose…

Using pliers, remove the clamp, then pull out the hose. You may need a rag in case there’s coolant still in the hose.

Now do the same for the bottom left of the throttle body. This one can be difficult to get to. If you’re unable to remove the hose from the left side of the throttle body, you may have to remove the intake accordion hose to get access.

Attach the two 5/16″ vacuum caps to the throttle body where you removed the hoses. You may reuse the hose clamps to secure the vacuum caps in place.

Now dig behind the alternator and pull the lower coolant hose out..

Line up the bottom and top coolant hoses together, then cut the excess hose from the top coolant line using scissors.

Finally, secure the two hoses together using the 5/16″ barb and hose clamps.

The result of this is that the intake air isn’t going to be heated before entering the engine. You may find increase throttle response, and maybe slight horse power gains.

Copyright: rotaryinsider.com

Transmission Fluid Change

October 9, 2009

The changing interval for the transmission and differential is 4 years or 70,000 km.

You need the following amounts :
Differential - 1.4 quarts Redline 75W90 or Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90
Transmission - 1.8 quarts Redline MT90 or Royal Purple Synchromax

RX-8 Diagnostic Outputs

September 8, 2009

Here are some random diagnostic outputs to use while troubleshooting.
Let me know if I missed any outputs that can be useful and I’ll update this post.

Instrument Cluster:

1. Put the key in the ignition
2. Push and hold the odometer button
3. Turn the key to the ‘ON’ position (do not start the car)
4. Continue to hold the odometer button until ‘test’ appears in the lower right corner
5. Once ‘test’ appears, you can release the button
6. Now push (not hold) the odometer button to scroll through various numbered options
7. Stop when you reach the desired output
8. After a full second the output signal should toggle (ex: light illuminates, gauge sweeps)
* Some have an on/off switch (ex: Buckle switch changes state when the seat belt is buckled)
9. To exit from the output diagnostic, simply turn the key to the ‘off’ position and back on.

Here is a list of all the outputs and what they mean:
01 = Buckle switch
04 = Door switch
08 = TNS relay
12 = Speedometer
13 = Tachometer
14 = Buzzer
16 = Fuel-level warning light
18 = Ignition key illumination
22 = Fuel gauge sender unit
23 = Fuel gauge
25 = Water temperature gauge
26 = Odometer tripmeter, warning and indicator light
28 = Oil pressure gauge
31 = Key reminder switch
55 = Dimmer switch

Speaker Inspection (Test Tone)

1. With the audio power on, press the ‘POWER’ button and simultaneously press the ‘AUTO-M’ button for roughly 1 second.
2. It will generate a test tone in the following order:
1st- Front driver-side door speaker and tweeter.
2nd- Front passenger-side door speaker and tweeter.
3rd- Driver-side rear speaker.
4th- Passenger-side rear speaker.

LCD Inspection:

1. With the audio power on, press the ‘POWER’ button and simultaneously press the ‘SEEK’ button for approximately 1 second
2. All the LCDs will illuminate. Inspect for any bad characters.
3. Turn the audio off or the ignition switch to the ‘LOCK’ position to stop the diagnostic assist function.

Button Inspection:

1. With the audio power on, press the ‘POWER’ button and simultaneously press the ‘CLOCK’ button for approximately 1 second
2. Press all the buttons. A buzzer sounds with each button pressed.
3. Turn the audio off or the ignition switch to the ‘LOCK’ position to stop the diagnostic assist function.

Temperature Control Knob:

1. With the audio power on, press the ‘POWER’ button and simultaneously press the ‘SCAN-UP’ button for approximately 1 second
2. “A/C TEMP” should appear on the left side of the LCD display and a number from 0 to 16 on the right.
3. The number advances in increments of 1 as you turn the temperature control knob
4. Turn the audio off or the ignition switch to the ‘LOCK’ position to stop the diagnostic assist function.

Radio Reception Condition Inspection:

1. With the audio power on, press the ‘POWER’ button and simultaneously press the ‘PRESET 2’ button for approximately 1 second.
* Even if the system is normal, radio reception may be difficult depending on where the system is inspected (indoors/outdoors, or conditions at the location). Before inspecting the system, verify that radio reception is adequate
* When inspecting, select a frequency band (radio station) with the best reception
LEV- 5 through LEV- 9 = Antenna, antenna feeder and base unit are normal
LEV- 3 through LEV- 4 = Change the frequency (radio station) and inspect again
LEV- 0 through LEV- 2 = Malfunction present
2. Turn the audio off or the ignition switch to the ‘LOCK’ position to stop the diagnostic assist function.

On-Board Diagnostic (Audio)

1. Turn the ignition to the ‘ACC’ or ‘ON’ position
2. While pressing the ‘POWER’ button, simultaneously press the ‘AM’ button and the ‘TAPE/MD’ button for 2 seconds or more
* If several DTCs are in memory, they can display using the ‘SEEK’ button
* If no DTC is stored, no codes will be displayed
3. To stop the on-board diagnostic test mode, turn the ignition switch to the ‘LOCK’ position

Identify the device and supplier codes by referring to the LCD display.
.1 09: ER20
__|_______|___________|_
Supplier..Device………..DTC

Supplier Code:
1 = FMS audio
2 = Panasonic
3 = CLARION

Device code:
00 = Cassette Deck
03 = CD player
05 = CD Changer (external)
06 = CD Changer (upper module)
07 = MD player
09 = Base Unit
10 = CD player system MP3 operation

Memory Clearing Procedure
1. Start the on-board diagnostic test more
2. While pressing the ‘POWER’ button, simultaneously press the ‘AUDIO CONT’ button for 2 seconds or more.
3. To stop the on-board diagnostic test mode, turn the ignition switch to the ‘LOCK’ position

DTC Table (Audio System)
09: Er22 = Base unit (peripheral circuit for tuner)
09: Er20 = Power supply circuit to base unit
00: Er10 = Cassette deck communication circuit system
03: Er10 = CD player communication circuit system
05: Er10 = CD changer (external) communication circuit system
06: Er10 = CD changer (upper module) communication circuit system
07: Er10 = MD player communication circuit system
03: Er01 = CD player system
03: Er02 = CD player system
03: Er07 = CD player system
00: Er01 = Cassette deck system
00: Er03 = Cassette deck system
00: Er04 = Cassette tape system
05: Er01 = CD changer (external) system
05: Er07 = CD changer (external) system
06: Er01 = CD changer (upper module) system
06: Er02 = CD changer (upper module) system
06: Er07 = CD changer (upper module) system
07: Er01 = MD player system
07: Er02 = MD player system
07: Er07 = MD player system
07: Er08 = MD system
10: Er01 = CD player system MP3 operation
10: Er02 = CD player system MP3 operation
no Er = No DTCs stored

Immobilizer System (DTC Inspection)

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ‘ON’ position
2. Verify the security light state.
* If there are any malfunctions:
o After any malfunction is detected, the security light will function as follows for approximately 1 min.
DTC 16 and lower: Flashes
DTC21 and higher: Illuminates
* If there are no malfunctions:
o The security light illuminates for approximately 3 seconds and goes out.
3. When any malfunction has been detected, read DTCs via flashing patterns displayed after the security light flashes or illuminates for approximately 1 minute.
* A verified DTC is flashed 10 times repeatedly by the security light.
* If multiple DTCs are verified, the security light displays only the smallest DTC.

DTC Table (Immobilizer System)
Security light flash pattern:
∩__∩_________ = No detected communication with the coil
∩__∩∩________ = Coil malfunction
∩__∩∩∩_______ = The key ID number data cannot be read or key ID registration error
∩__∩∩∩∩______ = The keyless control module cannot read key ID number data normally
∩__∩∩∩∩∩_____ = The keyless control module has detected unregistered key ID number
∩__∩∩∩∩∩∩____ = Communication error between the keyless control module and the PCM (no response or mismatched conditions)
∩∩__∩_________= Only one key ID number is registered
∩∩__∩∩_______ = Communication error between the keyless control module and the PCM (data transfer error)
∩∩__∩∩∩______ = ID number data in the PCM and the keyless control module do not match.
NOT ILLUMINATED = Keyless control module malfunction

Credits to user Teknics from rx8club.com

How to Reset ECU on mazda RX8

September 8, 2009

Here is how you clear your memory, also some reasons to clear each memory:
There are two reset procedures, one for the NVRAM and the other for the KAM.


NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)

NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they’re pretty close to unique.

As you’d imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn’t want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn’t a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won’t erase.

When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it’s really needed is when replacing a motor since you’ll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you’ll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it’s good to clear it.

How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:

NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.

2004-2008 Method

1. Turn ignition switch to “ON” position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.

NOTE:
Manual transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132647 and automatic transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132607 or vehicles with PCM updated to “L” calibration or later can confirm the clearing procedure was performed. If procedure was successful, the oil pressure gauge needle will move to right of center slightly (nearer H).
Vehicles produced prior to these VIN’s or vehicles without “L” calibration do not have an indicator to confirm the clearing procedure was performed.

3. Drive vehicle and confirm misfire related DTCs are not stored.

NOTE:
If the malfunction cannot be corrected even though the procedure was successful, the eccentric shaft position plate may be damaged. Inspect the eccentric shaft position plate. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-40 ECCENTRIC SHAFT POSITION PLATE INSPECTION and repair as necessary.

2009-2010 Method

1. Record customer radio station presets (FM1/2, AM, SAT).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable for a minimum of 1 minute.
With negative battery cable disconnected, depress and release brake pedal one time.
3. Reconnect negative battery cable.
4. If equipped with DSC, perform the STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE located in MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 04-15.
5. Input customer radio station presets.
6. Initialize power windows. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-12 POWER WINDOW INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE.

KAM (Keep Alive Memory)
Keep alive memory is not named because it keeps the car alive, rather it’s named after the way it works. When you remove the battery terminals from the battery you’d assume all power in the car is lost right, hell your clock resets so the PCM must too, right? WRONG. KAM is saved by “Keep Alive” power, reserve battery power if you will.

KAM generally doesn’t store very important stuff, other then the airbag operating on KA power they dont store anything in the KAM tho they just use the same reserve power. The main thing KAM stores are things like fuel trims etc. It’s useful to reset KAM when you have lean/rich codes where the fuel trims have been able to reach 25%. It takes a while even after repair for the fuel trims to go back to proper levels, if you clear the KAM it will reset them to 0%.

How do you reset KAM?
Two easy ways, disconnect the battery and leave it like that for at least 10 minutes, sometimes longer. To expedite the process disconnect the battery and hold down the brake pedal, itll drain the KA power quicker. This will allow all codes to clear and KAM to clear.

After some research, at this time, it seems pulling the Room Fuse on the interior fusebox will also clear only the KAM. Not 100% sure yet, but pretty close.

Credits to user Teknics from rx8club.com

Clean Rotary engine using WD-40

August 20, 2009

How to clean RX8 engine using WD-40 in order to recover a good compression.

The hidden RX8 navigation menus

August 3, 2009

All codes are activated by clicking the MENU button on your center console. You will get the choice of "Select Destination" or "Setup Menu".

Choose "Setup Menu"

Then select "System Information"

Then select "Version"

The three hidden menus are:

System Information: UP UP DOWN DOWN

ECU Information: UP UP UP DOWN DOWN DOWN UP UP

System Analysis: UP UP UP DOWN DOWN DOWN UP DOWN

Yes, my RX-8 really does look like a Ferrari.

RX8 DSC dirty little secret

August 3, 2009

The RX-8 has DSC enabled by default.

Mazda put in a disable button that you can depress for 2 seconds to disable some of DSC’s features.

What isn’t in the manual is a secret mode that can be activated by holding down on DSC even longer than 2 seconds. You’ll know when it activates because an error light will turn on in your dash. That’s Mazda’s way of avoiding lawyers - DSC “malfunctioned”

What this “DSC error” does is remove ALL DSC functionality.

Please be warned that according to the Service Highlights manual, code C1093 (DSC OFF switch system) is logged. The DSC hydraulic unit/control module has a non-volatile memory that cannot be cleared even if the cars battery is removed.
Rumor is that disabling DSC will yield better gas mileage. There has been no concrete proof of this, and more often than not, users who believe this end to report later that they wrapped their car around a tree. Go figure.

Reset A/C for mazda RX-8

August 3, 2009

RX8 AC reset

AC RESET:

1. Make sure the car is off AND the HVAC fan is off AND the A/C on/off button is off.
2. Press and hold the front defroster (on the left) AND air source (recirc/fresh air) buttons
3. Continue pressing the buttons in step 2 and turn the key to ACC for 3 seconds
4. Continue pressing the buttons in step 2 and further turn the key to ON (NOT START) for 3 sec.
5. Verify the programming update by observing the REAR defroster LED blink 3 times.
6. Release the two buttons from step 2 and start the car.

Some have repoted the reset fixing issues of lack of cold. My car definately saw colder air once I reset it.

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