Tune UP your mazda RX8 - best deal kit
Mazda RX8 Eibach pro kit suspension upgrade

How to conserve petrol on Mazda RX-8

March 26, 2009

Driving technique for conserving fuel or petrol in a Mazda RX-8 when running low on fuel or gas.

RX8 jacking points

January 12, 2009

The jacking points are the centre of the front cross member (between the front wheels), and the centre of the differential.

Click to zoom in:

How to install Vinyl Graphics on the RX8

January 7, 2009

Video presenting the Vinyl Graphics install on the showanddrift RX8 project.

Installing RX8 stainless steel brake lines

December 31, 2008

Another great modification for the RX8 is to replace the rubber flexible brake lines with stainless steel braided ones. There are several kits out there, but I choose the Goodridge G-Stop ones after several positive comments. They are DOT approved for street use.

This is the box from the Goodridge kit. It included the 4 lines, plus all the replacement hardware you could use (new bolts, crush washers and clips).

This is the front setup. The instructions say the lines are 0.75″ longer than stock, which is true. You nee to be careful about routing them so they don’t get hung up on anything while the suspension goes through its full range of travel (that would be a BAD thing). The mounting holes through the clamps to hold the lines to the upper control arms was too small for the stock bolt, so I opened them up with a drill.

The rear setup was a bit easier as there were fewer things to worry about the lines hanging up on.

Article from www.gerhardstein.net

Rear lights misting

December 18, 2008

Early RX8’s had problems with rear lights, because they kept misting on the inside. This is due to the units not being fully sealed and the mist should clear when the temperature equalises. Dealers may replace them on the warranty if misting is excessive.

If there is excessive misting or signs of water in the lamp, the gasket surrounding the light may be leaking.

It is quite easy to remove the light, first undo the poppers holding the side boot interior trim to access the rear of the light unit, then remove the bulbs and undo the two bolts holding the unit in (be careful not to drop it). If the gasket shows no sign of damage, but is dirty clean it and the area on the rear panel it sits against, to allow a better seal. Dry the unit out and refit, ensure the bolts are quite tight, but don’t over tighten as its only attached to plastic.

If you can’t get it completely dry before refitting and misting reoccurs, remove the bulbs when parked to allow moisture to escape in to the boot. This is effective after a long run with the A/C on, as the boot air will be very warm and dry. Remember to put the bulbs back before driving again!

Installing RX8 grounding kit from Z-Enterprises

December 17, 2008

While doing the clear corners and “fixing” the fog lights, I also installed a grounding kit from Z-Enterprises (maxground) after reading a number of reviews on it helping the engine to idle smoother. Yeah, they primarily do stuff for the Nissan Z cars, but the RX-8 stuff looked good, too.

This is the full kit with 4 wires with crimped connectors. The crimps were very tight on the wire.

The ends of the crimps are numbered so you can figure out which wire goes where. The numbers are only stamped on one side, so you can orient the connector such that the numbers are not visible.

This is the full kit installed. The kit came with 3 color pages of instructions that were very good (which of course I didn’t follow, but I think its a guy thing). I did like the instruction in the Preparation section “Don’t drop anything — you may not find it”, which is very true, especially with the bolt on the engine. The new cables duplicate the cables already existing from Mazda (the directions have you leave the factory cables in place).

The first cable runs from the battery to the ECU ground near the passenger side of the front strut tower bar. The second cable goes from the ECU to the chassis ground next to the windshield washer fluid bottle.

The third cable goes from the chassis ground to the engine.

The fourth cable goes from the engine to the chassis ground on the driver’s side next to the master brake cylinder.

Article from www.gerhardstein.net

Rewiring the RX8 fog lights

December 14, 2008

While doing the clear corners, I also decided it was time to “fix” the fog lights. This is not to say they were not working — just not the way I wanted them to. Apparently the US government in their infinite wisdom has decided that fog lights should only be turned on when the low beams are also on. While I agree that they can improve lighting of the road with the low beams (especially on very twisty roads), the best use I have ever had for them is driving in the snow with only the parking lights on. Luckily the members of rx8club.com realized that this was a pretty easy thing to do.DISCLAIMER: blah, blah, blah, this page describes modifications I made to the factory wiring on a 2004 RX-8. Not all RX-8s, even of the same year and options package, will look the same as mine, so the instructions below may lead to the destruction of your car (or at least significant damage) if you try to follow them. At the least, you are likely to void all or part of your warranty. Please acquire the factory shop manuals for your specific car to determine how to do this to your car. Remember to disconnect the battery before attempting any of this work and do not bypass the fuses in the car (they are there for a reason, and if they are blowing, it is for a good reason).

This is a scan from the 2004 RX-8 Wiring Diagram. The power for the fog light relay comes from the “FRONT FOG LIGHT RELAY” (circle 150). This is only at +12V when the headlight switch is in the LOW position. The plan is to pull power from another point that has +12V at the times you want it. There are many places you can do this, from hooking directly to the battery so the lights can be turned on at any time (bad idea — don’t bypass the fuse!), to what I did which is to tap into the parking light power (TAIL). Using this later point allows the fog lights to be turned on whenever the parking lights are on, which means also that if you try to leave the fog lights on when you turn the car off, you get the normal warning tone from the car (and hopefully don’t kill your battery). I chose to use TAIL instead of the ILLUMI, because the parking lights draw much less power than the interior illumination does and I didn’t want to overload a circuit.

This drawing from the 2004 RX-8 Wiring Diagram book shows the wiring for the fog light relay, switch and lamps. The power to actually drive the fog lights goes through the FOG fuse. What we are doing is to provide a new power source for the control side of the relay. When the fog light switch is turned on, it completes the circuit which closes the FRONT FOG LIGHT RELAY which completes the circuit to actually power the fog lights.

The wiring work will be done inside the fuse box in the front driver side of the engine compartment. We are going to be modifying the wiring to the FOG relay (on the right center) by pulling power from after the TAIL fuse (little fuses top center).

This is the inside of the fuse box. The FOG relay is the lower of the three black boxes on the right side of the fuse box. The TAIL fuse is one of the colored guys top center. To remove the fuse/relay holder (tan plastic), there are a few snap connectors around the perimeter. You should not need to remove any wires or nuts/screws.

The brown wire is the hot side of the control side for the fog light relay. I cut this and taped off the end in an appropriate manner (remember that it will be at +12V whenever the low beams are on, so you don’t want it flopping around in the fuse box). I spliced the tail of the brown wire to the black-with-red-stripe wire from the TAIL fuse using a cable splice.

This is a shot with the parking lights and fog lights on.

This is a shot with the fog lights and high beams on.

Credits to gerhardstein.net

Mazda RX8 Maintenance Tips

December 10, 2008

Quick video explaining how to care for your Mazda RX8.
This tutorial is describing maintenance tips, like the starting procedure, type of oil to use, how to start a flooded engine etc.

RX8 Front Bumper Removal

December 7, 2008

Video tutorial showing how to remove the front bumper of the Mazda RX8

RX8 Starting Problems | RX-8 Flooding issue

December 3, 2008

The RX8 (and many other new cars which comply with EURO 4 emissions) can be prone to flooding. The reason for this seems to lie with the need for the catalyser to be warmed quickly to comply with EURO 4 emissions. This means that initially the engine runs very rich increasing the risk of flooding if the engine is not allowed to warm up before switching off.

The manual gives advice on starting which will minimise the chance of problems. The recommended procedure is to depress the clutch; do not touch the accelerator; crank the starter until the engine starts, even if that means cranking the starter for up to 10 seconds. The engine sounds a bit different from a piston engine when starting and can take longer to catch but it’s best to keep going rather than have several attempts.

If this does not work after several attempts then either call Mazda Assist or fully depress the accelerator and crank the engine for 10s (This actually shuts off the fuel to the engine and helps clear fuel from chamber), then try to start as above again. Alternatively removing the fuse to the fuel injection system and cranking the engine should have the same effect.

If this doesn’t work then the plugs may need to be removed to clean them.
Following an episode of flooding the functioning of the cat should be checked by the dealer as it has been known for the unburnt fuel to damage the cat.
In practice problems only seem to happen following a short move from cold e.g. moving car from garage to driveway. If you need to do this then run the engine for a few minutes or go for a run round the block before switching the engine off.


If following the recommend procedure above does not work, you do not have Mazda Assist support and you feel competant, here is the technique Mazda Assist will normally use (to be performed at your own risk):-
  1. Use jump leeds to connect to additional power source (see note 1).
  2. Unplug Air pump connnector (see note 2)
  3. Take fuel pump fuse out (see note 3)
  4. Crank for 4 seconds, pause for 2 seconds, repeat for about a minute
  5. Leave for a minute
  6. Crank for 4 seconds, pause for 2 seconds, repeat for about a minute
  7. Put fuel pump fuse back in
  8. Crank for up to 10 seconds, if it catches but doesn’t start, stop cranking
  9. If not started go back to step 3
  10. If started, wait 30 seconds for oil pressure to rise
  11. Stand on throttle until white smoke stops coming out of the exhaust
  12. Disconnect jump leads
  13. Leave to warm up on idle for a few minutes
  14. Put air punp connector back on (see note 3)
  15. Go for a nice long drive to recharge the battery


An additional power source is required as the standard battery will not crank the engine for long enough to clear a serious flooding. Eiher connect to an additional high capacty battery, or to another car with its engine running.

The Fuel pump fuse is number 22, a 20A, 3 from the top of the second column of the fuse box.

The air pump connector is on the black circlular motor housing to the left of the oil filler cap. Removal is recommend to reduce power drain on the battery, to prevent fuel vapour blowing back in to the chambers, and to reduce the possibility of a backfire after starting which can damage the catalyst.



This is part true, but mostly untrue.

If you start up an RX8, move it 2 feet and then stop the engine, you dramitically increase the chance of flooding the engine (for the reasons described by crabacle above). It’s not a certainty though. That said, it is strongly suggested you don’t do that.

You don’t have to go on a 10 mile run to avoid the problem though (although it might be fun).

How to minimise the chance of flooding

1 - If the temperature gauge is in it’s normal position (normally there after ~5 minutes of driving), then it’s highly unlikely the engine will flood. So don’t worry about it.

2 - If you need to move the car a short distance when it’s cold (it’s ok when it’s already warm - see point 1), sit there and enjoy the music/engine/exhaust note for a few minutes until the temperature gauge begins to move. Once this has begun to move, it’s highly unlikely to flood.

3 - Follow the shutdown procedure (although generally option 2 is preferred). There is a leaflet provided by Mazda with the newer RX8’s that covers this.

4 - Go for a short drive (couple of miles). Preferably down some twisty country lanes. That should warm both you and the car up.

I’ve personally followed these guidelines for the last 3.5 years, and haven’t flooded the engine yet (now touching wood).

If the worst does happen and you flood the engine follow Mazda’s guidelines initially (described by crabacle above), and if that doesn’t work try druck’s solution (above).

Credits to rx8ownersclub.co.uk

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