Comments for Mazda Rx8 - tuning, videos, versus, photos, tehnical data http://www.rx8blog.com rx8blog.com - A blog where you can read everything about mazda rx8, from tuning parts to versus videos again its major competitors. Tue, 07 Feb 2012 05:23:57 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.2 Comment on Mazda Rx8 Compression Test by Vashcloud http://www.rx8blog.com/mazda-rx8-compression-test/#comment-19428 Vashcloud Fri, 20 Jan 2012 05:07:42 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=470#comment-19428 The number one issue with most Rx-8s is the number one issue with most cars....THE OWNER. I have a 04 Rx-8 with 104k running OEM motor from day one, thing is though. I don't treat my rx-8 like a civic, it demands respect much like you would treat a Porches. And in case you haven't owned one, they are B****es for breaking down without proper maintenance. Deployment guy, you probably didn't rev up your motor to 4500 *like it says in manual* to expel gas from cambers. Its not a piston, the seal that keeps compression is always exposed. So letting a rotary sit is a bad idea. Either fill it up with storage oil and let sit, or drain completely and store where seals wont be bothered by elements. Problem 2. Its a rotary, redline ONCE a day or every two days. The carb. build up is ON the seals in the engine, if you grandy it too much it will wear out the seal. Duh, drive it like you own a pair. Problem 3. The engine is designed to burn oil, check it every 2 or 3 gas fill ups. Don't use sythic oil as it doesn't lub the seals correctly. period. Problem 4. Just because you work at a car dealership or built a b16 in your moms garage DOESNTMAKING U CAR MASTA! Each engine and car are different. For people that had their shit go bad its usually their fault. They want something that looks cool but none of the responsibility that goes into it. My rx8 makes 221 whp and runs like a champ. But I know how to take care of her. Remember people, the MOST registared and DRIVEN old car on the road in USA is the 1st gene RX-7. They just dont die until 300K++++. Case in point none of these idiots know what they are talking about. Fixed. The number one issue with most Rx-8s is the number one issue with most cars….THE OWNER.

I have a 04 Rx-8 with 104k running OEM motor from day one, thing is though. I don’t treat my rx-8 like a civic, it demands respect much like you would treat a Porches. And in case you haven’t owned one, they are B****es for breaking down without proper maintenance.

Deployment guy, you probably didn’t rev up your motor to 4500 *like it says in manual* to expel gas from cambers. Its not a piston, the seal that keeps compression is always exposed. So letting a rotary sit is a bad idea. Either fill it up with storage oil and let sit, or drain completely and store where seals wont be bothered by elements.

Problem 2. Its a rotary, redline ONCE a day or every two days. The carb. build up is ON the seals in the engine, if you grandy it too much it will wear out the seal. Duh, drive it like you own a pair.

Problem 3. The engine is designed to burn oil, check it every 2 or 3 gas fill ups. Don’t use sythic oil as it doesn’t lub the seals correctly. period.

Problem 4. Just because you work at a car dealership or built a b16 in your moms garage DOESNTMAKING U CAR MASTA! Each engine and car are different. For people that had their shit go bad its usually their fault. They want something that looks cool but none of the responsibility that goes into it. My rx8 makes 221 whp and runs like a champ. But I know how to take care of her. Remember people, the MOST registared and DRIVEN old car on the road in USA is the 1st gene RX-7. They just dont die until 300K++++. Case in point none of these idiots know what they are talking about. Fixed.

]]> Comment on Mazda Rx8 Compression Test by mike http://www.rx8blog.com/mazda-rx8-compression-test/#comment-19424 mike Thu, 19 Jan 2012 22:06:43 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=470#comment-19424 yeah clint has a point, if you drive a rx-8 then your pretty much a queer in my book. a cock sucking homo who has no taste in cars, im js... yeah clint has a point, if you drive a rx-8 then your pretty much a queer in my book. a cock sucking homo who has no taste in cars, im js…

]]> Comment on Mazda Rx8 Compression Test by clint wiliams http://www.rx8blog.com/mazda-rx8-compression-test/#comment-19414 clint wiliams Wed, 18 Jan 2012 14:43:04 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=470#comment-19414 :P i work at a used car dealer and every rx8 we have delt with is a turd. i just wanted you all to know. They run like hell when they run, but terrible gas milage??? wont start half the time, and thats just the engine part of it. wait till your heater control nob fails to work}: id rather buy a 3500 dollar, old, iroc-z and put a 383 in it and use all the money i saved to put in on gas. :P i work at a used car dealer and every rx8 we have delt with is a turd. i just wanted you all to know. They run like hell when they run, but terrible gas milage??? wont start half the time, and thats just the engine part of it. wait till your heater control nob fails to work}: id rather buy a 3500 dollar, old, iroc-z and put a 383 in it and use all the money i saved to put in on gas.

]]> Comment on Rx8 by tuninghouse.net by Michael Thornton http://www.rx8blog.com/rx8-by-tuninghousenet/#comment-19403 Michael Thornton Mon, 16 Jan 2012 15:07:49 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=321#comment-19403 Hi , I live in Ireland and am wondering if you know anywhere i can get a parts manual for a 1998 Opel Tigra. Thanks e-mail pressurecleaners@eircom.net Hi , I live in Ireland and am wondering if you know anywhere i can get a parts manual for a 1998 Opel Tigra. Thanks e-mail pressurecleaners@eircom.net

]]> Comment on Mazda RX8 interesting facts by Thrazher http://www.rx8blog.com/mazda-rx8-interesting-facts/#comment-19398 Thrazher Mon, 16 Jan 2012 04:17:43 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=55#comment-19398 I want to install turbo timer for my 8, is it safe because my friend said the engine is sensitive so to make sure just want to hear from all u guys opinon thanks I want to install turbo timer for my 8, is it safe because my friend said the engine is sensitive so to make sure just want to hear from all u guys opinon thanks

]]> Comment on Mazda RX8 Turbo 269km uphill in Greece by Aaneck77 http://www.rx8blog.com/mazda-rx8-turbo-245km-269km-uphill-on-greece-highway/#comment-19367 Aaneck77 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 13:42:16 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=254#comment-19367 MU got the speed to race. Have fun if u do MU got the speed to race. Have fun if u do

]]> Comment on RX8 Starting Problems | RX-8 Flooding issue by RXR8TD http://www.rx8blog.com/rx8-starting-problems-rx-8-flooding-issue/#comment-19274 RXR8TD Sun, 08 Jan 2012 01:53:17 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=546#comment-19274 Hello all, after 4 days of aggravation, I hope I can clear up some ?'s and confusion with these cars. I am an aircraft, motorcycle and car technician, so I hope my input helps. After disassembling my engine and cleaning injectors, sensors, throttle body..etc, I put everything back together, only to find that the engine would crank but not start. There was no spark at the coils, though they were getting power and had good ground at the connectors. I had already replaced all plugs, wires, and coils previously. After several hours spent diagnosing every system, this is what I found. 1. The rotary engine will at some point flood, in my case this was due to water contamination not allowing spark...then excessive fuel from cranking not allowing spark. 2. There will be no spark at the coils until the combustion chambers are cleared. Do this by removing fuel inj circuit relay and fuel pump fuse, then crank for up to 10 seconds, with 10 second or so rest periods for the starter, for up to 5 or 6 tries. If the engine is REALLY flooded, you will have to remove the spark plugs and crank using the same pro desires. Clean and dry plugs thoroughly. You know the engine is clear when you no longer see fuel mist, oil mist, or water puffing out of the spark plug holes. 3. Reinstall spark plugs. Attach plug wires 4. Reinstall fuel inj circuit relay, but leave out the fuel pump fuse. This will insure that any fuel remaining in the injectors will combust, but you will not flood the engine again. 5. Proceed to crank the engine at 10 second intervals while slowly and repeatedly depressing and releasing the accelerator pedal. This will take quite a while...up to 30 mins or so. Be sure to have a battery charger or jump vehicle available, or you will quickly drain your battery. 6. At some point the engine will catch and rev a few times before shutting off. Install the fuel pump fuse and again crank the engine at tten second intervals. This may take several minutes as the fuel system repressurizes. Crank the hell out of it until it and slowly depress and release the accelerator pedal untill it catches and idles. The exhaust and blow by will be severe for a few minutes. Allow the engine to warm to normal temp before doing anything else!! 7. Drive the vehicle. HARD! Smack the rev limiter a few time to clear the carbon and unburnt fuel from the system. 8. Some other things to check if you can't get the car to start ( and remember..it may take a stupid amount of cranking!!) check the eccentric shaft position sensor for dirt, water, metal shavings, broken connector etc. It is attached right beside the main crank pulley very close to the toothed plate. It is a hall effect sensor that determines when to fire the coils. REMEMBER, a flooded engine won't spark anyways, so don't assume the ESPS is bad because there is no spark. They are very simple and rarely go bad, so cleaning the sensor and harness will usually keep it working fine. Also, when was the last time the coils and plugs were replaced? More thn 30k miles? Replace them. Make sure the wires re replaced at the same time. Check all fuses for fuel pump, ignition, etc. As a final note...it is my belief that when severly flooded, the rotor apex seals will either stick in their grooves or simply not seal against the housing, basically giving all the symptoms of an engine with no compression. This could be due to carbon build up against the apex seals getting "gummy" when washed with so much fuel...I had quite a lot of tarry black goo come out of this thing when I cleaned/de flooded it. Also be careful what motor oil you use, or you will get carbon build up in short order. Use Mobil 1 synthetic or Motul. No Royal Purple ( great oil...just not for rotaries). I hope this helps! Any ?'s email me Torres.Demitrius@yahoo.com Hello all, after 4 days of aggravation, I hope I can clear up some ?’s and confusion with these cars. I am an aircraft, motorcycle and car technician, so I hope my input helps.
After disassembling my engine and cleaning injectors, sensors, throttle body..etc, I put everything back together, only to find that the engine would crank but not start. There was no spark at the coils, though they were getting power and had good ground at the connectors. I had already replaced all plugs, wires, and coils previously.
After several hours spent diagnosing every system, this is what I found.
1. The rotary engine will at some point flood, in my case this was due to water contamination not allowing spark…then excessive fuel from cranking not allowing spark.
2. There will be no spark at the coils until the combustion chambers are cleared. Do this by removing fuel inj circuit relay and fuel pump fuse, then crank for up to 10 seconds, with 10 second or so rest periods for the starter, for up to 5 or 6 tries. If the engine is REALLY flooded, you will have to remove the spark plugs and crank using the same pro desires. Clean and dry plugs thoroughly. You know the engine is clear when you no longer see fuel mist, oil mist, or water puffing out of the spark plug holes.
3. Reinstall spark plugs. Attach plug wires
4. Reinstall fuel inj circuit relay, but leave out the fuel pump fuse. This will insure that any fuel remaining in the injectors will combust, but you will not flood the engine again.
5. Proceed to crank the engine at 10 second intervals while slowly and repeatedly depressing and releasing the accelerator pedal. This will take quite a while…up to 30 mins or so. Be sure to have a battery charger or jump vehicle available, or you will quickly drain your battery.
6. At some point the engine will catch and rev a few times before shutting off. Install the fuel pump fuse and again crank the engine at tten second intervals. This may take several minutes as the fuel system repressurizes. Crank the hell out of it until it and slowly depress and release the accelerator pedal untill it catches and idles. The exhaust and blow by will be severe for a few minutes. Allow the engine to warm to normal temp before doing anything else!!
7. Drive the vehicle. HARD! Smack the rev limiter a few time to clear the carbon and unburnt fuel from the system.
8. Some other things to check if you can’t get the car to start ( and remember..it may take a stupid amount of cranking!!) check the eccentric shaft position sensor for dirt, water, metal shavings, broken connector etc. It is attached right beside the main crank pulley very close to the toothed plate. It is a hall effect sensor that determines when to fire the coils. REMEMBER, a flooded engine won’t spark anyways, so don’t assume the ESPS is bad because there is no spark. They are very simple and rarely go bad, so cleaning the sensor and harness will usually keep it working fine. Also, when was the last time the coils and plugs were replaced? More thn 30k miles? Replace them. Make sure the wires re replaced at the same time.
Check all fuses for fuel pump, ignition, etc.
As a final note…it is my belief that when severly flooded, the rotor apex seals will either stick in their grooves or simply not seal against the housing, basically giving all the symptoms of an engine with no compression. This could be due to carbon build up against the apex seals getting “gummy” when washed with so much fuel…I had quite a lot of tarry black goo come out of this thing when I cleaned/de flooded it. Also be careful what motor oil you use, or you will get carbon build up in short order. Use Mobil 1 synthetic or Motul. No Royal Purple ( great oil…just not for rotaries).
I hope this helps! Any ?’s email me Torres.Demitrius@yahoo.com

]]> Comment on RX8 Starting Problems | RX-8 Flooding issue by Rick http://www.rx8blog.com/rx8-starting-problems-rx-8-flooding-issue/#comment-19206 Rick Wed, 04 Jan 2012 22:27:39 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=546#comment-19206 Wow...so glad I came across this site. Flooded RX8. third time. First two...into the dealer. Last time, dealer said that Mazda would not cover the de-flooding again. I had to do the procedure 3 times, but it coughed to life on 3rd try. Never turn off cold RX8!!! Thanks again for the procedure! Saved me a ton of money! Wow…so glad I came across this site. Flooded RX8. third time. First two…into the dealer. Last time, dealer said that Mazda would not cover the de-flooding again. I had to do the procedure 3 times, but it coughed to life on 3rd try. Never turn off cold RX8!!! Thanks again for the procedure! Saved me a ton of money!

]]> Comment on Mazda RX8 Maintenance Tips by Norman http://www.rx8blog.com/mazda-rx8-maintenance-tips/#comment-19033 Norman Wed, 28 Dec 2011 04:14:59 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=576#comment-19033 I have a 2005 Mazda RX8. Started fine one day. Shut it off ran into the house for a second. Tried to start the car again, it wouldn't start. Tried the flooded engine procedure. Would not start. I had a mechanic tell me once that he poured a little bit of transmission fluid into two small ports on the right side of the engine, I believe to help build up compression in the rotary cylinder. The car started fine after that, untll 2 days ago. Could I have apex seals on the rotor not performing properly? Any ideas? Thanks in advance. I have a 2005 Mazda RX8. Started fine one day. Shut it off ran into the house for a second. Tried to start the car again, it wouldn’t start. Tried the flooded engine procedure. Would not start. I had a mechanic tell me once that he poured a little bit of transmission fluid into two small ports on the right side of the engine, I believe to help build up compression in the rotary cylinder. The car started fine after that, untll 2 days ago. Could I have apex seals on the rotor not performing properly? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

]]> Comment on Dynamic Stability Control recalibration by RX8-JORGE http://www.rx8blog.com/dynamic-stability-control-recalibration/#comment-18902 RX8-JORGE Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:23:55 +0000 http://www.rx8blog.com/?p=467#comment-18902 Thanx yo worked like a charm ^_^ Thanx yo worked like a charm ^_^

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