IMHO the best add-on is the new lubrication system to enhance the reliability, which was a downside on the previous mazda RX8 model.

06’s and newer have the oil overflow routed into the rear maintenance ports.

I purchased the catch can below off ebay for $45. Claimed it was OBX, but obx didn’t have these on their site. So… who knows - its a can that holds oil… as long as it doesn’t leak, i’m happy.

Step 2. Choose a catch can that you feel comfortable with. 750ml capacity is pretty large. Make sure you can fit a large can in your engine bay. Quality doesn’t seem to be a real issue as long as the fittings are good. But like anything else, you get what you pay for.

Step 3. Supplies. (If not included with your can)
Vacuum/ emissions hose. thicker walled, enough to not collapse under vacuum.
24 inches should be enough. I used 5/16 hose, but it would be easier with a slightly larger diameter.
Hose clamps
10mm socket
flat head screw driver
Vacuum Caps
Breather filter (if desired - not running hose back into intake)

Step 4. Remove the stock hose connecting the oil filler chamber to the intake. You do not need any tools to this, it will just pop off with a little wiggling.
Ports to remove are in red circles, and the hose path is in yellow.
Note - when removing the hose from the air intake, it connects to a black plastic “L” joint. If you try to rip off the hose, you risk breaking this L joint. So be gentle with it and slowly work it off.
Don’t use pliers either.

Also - Keep that stock hose someplace if you ever need to go back to stock. I’m sure a dealership would try to void your warranty for this.

Step 5. Find a suitable mount for your catch can. Best places are by the window washer fluid tank or the other side by the brake master cylinder. Ensure a good fit, make sure the path of your hoses won’t run by any belts or really hot areas.

Be sure you can see the oil catch can oil level without too much difficulty.

I mounted mine in front of the washer fluid can. Removed the 10mm bolt and popped off the wiring clip. I also mounted my can quickly to test it to make sure it would fit alright then unbolted it so it would be easier to attach the hose.
I circled my primary locations in the picture.

Step 6. Run the hose to unmounted can. Mark the hose and cut the proper length. Try to keep the filler cap higher than the entry port to the catch can so the overflow will run into the can with gravity.

Mount your hose from the filler port to the “unmounted” catch can, but run the hose on the path that you want it. (it’ll be easier to attach the hose to the can when it is not mounted)

Use a clamp on the catch can filler neck hose…

Step 7. Finish mounting the can with the hoses run to and from the can (if you’re not capping the intake)

Step 8. Install breather on exit port of catch can and install hose clamp on port.

Step 9. Cap the intake (If not running catch can exit hose back to intake)
With the stock hose removed, you’ll have an open port into your intake that is unfiltered air (bad). Thus, you need to cap it using a Vacuum cap, I don’t know the exact size for sure, so I just tried different sizes out of my “variety pack” from autozone until I got one to fit.

Step 10. Admire your handy work, even you can work on cars!

Again, this DIY may seem really really basic, but I think it will be helpful for people who are not really comfortable working on their cars - this is really step by step.

Enjoy a dry intake from now on!

Credentials to Vyndictive from rx8club.com

Lucky for almost all of us, we don’t live in subarctic locations… It’s a no brainer for anyone living in the south.

The throttle body’s purpose is to control the amount of air that goes into the engine. With 180-200 degree coolant running through it, we are essentially heating up the air moments before it goes into the engine.

Bypassing the throttle body is easy and should take about 5 minutes.

You will need a single 5/16″ barb that looks like this (buy it from home depot):

Two small hose clamps (any auto parts store will carry these):

And finally, you’ll need two 5/16″ vacuum caps (I initially bought 3/8″ and it was far too big):

Before you begin, make sure your car is cooled down, otherwise you risk getting burned if coolant splatters on you.

First, open the radiator cap in case it’s pressurized.

Next, look at the throttle body. On the top is a black hose…

Using pliers, remove the clamp, then pull out the hose. You may need a rag in case there’s coolant still in the hose.

Now do the same for the bottom left of the throttle body. This one can be difficult to get to. If you’re unable to remove the hose from the left side of the throttle body, you may have to remove the intake accordion hose to get access.

Attach the two 5/16″ vacuum caps to the throttle body where you removed the hoses. You may reuse the hose clamps to secure the vacuum caps in place.

Now dig behind the alternator and pull the lower coolant hose out..

Line up the bottom and top coolant hoses together, then cut the excess hose from the top coolant line using scissors.

Finally, secure the two hoses together using the 5/16″ barb and hose clamps.

The result of this is that the intake air isn’t going to be heated before entering the engine. You may find increase throttle response, and maybe slight horse power gains.

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